The Other side of the Coin

My last day in Cape Town.

I was having a debate on what to do on my last day. The debate was between doing something adventurous that I had had my eye since I first booked my trip – SHARK CAGE DIVING. Yes, I wanted to be submerged in a cage with scuba equipment and watch sharks swim by. I thought it would have been fun The other option that was of interest to me was to take a tour through the townships. So, I opted for the multicultural side of Cape Town and did the Township Tour, and I am so glad I did.

As some background, South Africa went through a very segregated time in their history. Blacks and Whites were segregated and it was a very rough time for South Africans. The principle of the “Apartheid” was that there were two separate dimensions with separate rights. Blacks and coloured people had their rights taken away, while Whites retained theirs. Civil disobedience and protests were common. Black people had to carry passes to enter into “White areas.”

District 6 was a community within Cape Town. Named in 1867, it was the 6th district in Cape Town. It was originally a mixed community of free slaves, merchants, artisans, labourers and immigrants and it had a very tolerant and bohemian character. In 1966, during the Apartheid, District 6 was declared a white area and by 1982, some 60,000 people were forced from their homes in District 6 and moved to the empty area outside of Cape Town known as the Cape Flats.

These individuals that were displaced were forced to live in communities that became known as Townships during the apartheid. Several of the townships have evolved from what were labour camps, where male only-hostels were established to meet the needs of the nearby city. If a man lost his job or grew too old or got ill, he lost his right to live in the township and was required to return to his designated tribal homeland.

Today, in spite of the end of the apartheid, people continue to live in these townships mostly for economic reasons, but for social reason as well. Over the years, extensive communities of families and friends have evolved, many of whom have lived together for 40-50 years, and leaving would be a giant change for them. Basic services, such as electricity and water, just became a priority to the new government in 1994. Even 4 proper standing walls and a roof are rare commodity along with proper sanitary conditions,running water and electricity in some of the townships.

With my guide, we were able to visit the District 6 museum, which gave a very insightful look into the lives of the people who lived in District 6 but were forced to move. The museum began in 1994 when the apartheid was over and displays pictures of the area before and after the forced removal along with writings and memories from former residents of the district. On the floor of the museum was a giant street map of the district. During the opening of the museum, former residents were invited to come to the museum and mark on the floor map where they used to live. Many of them also left messages behind.

After the museum, we visited 2 Townships, Langa and Kayelitsha. Langa is the oldest Township dating from 1927. Slowly, it is being transformed into a modern suberb, complete with schools, medical clinics and sports facilities, but it still appears that they have a long way to go. Living in cramped corridors means that neighbours eat together, socialize together and help each other in times of need.

In Langa, our first stop was too a lady’s house who cooked sheep’s head and sells them. They are quite popular among the locals once the hair is burned and cut off. The brain is a delicacy (picture to the right). We also visited a local tavern where locals sit and drink (some of them all day long to escape). They drink homemade beer from giant tin cans. Everyone drinks out of the same can. To drink all day long, it cost about 1 US Dollar. Every time we stopped our vehicle, we were immediately surrounding by children. They’re smart..they know tourists means treats. But, god forbid you give a child anything. You give one child a piece of candy, you must give all of them candy.

One of the most disheartening things is that there is no running water at this township. There are water taps throughout the township that they must carry their laundry too. I also saw young children going to the bathroom outside in the grass/dirt next to the sidewalk. One of the schools in the township is held in a giant container like the back of a 18-wheeler truck.

Kayelitsha is the largest township in South Africa. It is 11 square miles and houses some 1 million people. As you can see, the shacks in which people live stretch for miles. Our first stop was to ‘Golden’s Workshop’. Golden makes flowers from cut-up tin cans. We then stopped at a lady’s house who had opened up a soup kitchen for children. With her creativity and ingenuity, she has more than 60 women in the township helping her.

I was worried that this tour would be putting these people on display, but it wasn't like that at all. I can’t call my trip to the townships a tour. It was an Experience. I knew that poverty existed in Africa, but until you see it first hand, I don't think anyone can ever fully grasp the conditions in which one lives. The disease and illness that comes from living in situtations such as these can be overwhelming. AIDS is prevelant in more than 30% of the citizens of these townships which leads to continued high numbers of unemployment. Crime is high because. Education is poor. This Experience was one that was eye opening and made me realize that 'bad' situtations that I may find myself in some day can' t be called bad. But, at the same time, I never saw a frown or sad face among those that we visited with. Maybe bored..maybe tired. But it's their home

Later in the afternoon, I was able to get a last minute reservations to Robben Island, the equivalent of Alcatrez. The maximum security prison where Nelson Mandela spent 18 years of his 27-year imprisonment (these are pictures of his very small cell with no bed and a red can for a toilet). With a spectacular view of Table Mountain and the Cape Town Waterfront, this fortress island has held many prisoners and others who were outcasted from society due to illness, etc. All tours of the island are led by former inmates of the prison, which really gives a prison tour a personal feel.

I was sad to end my stay in Cape Town. I really enjoyed it and I know there is so much more of South Africa that I want to see and do (Shark Cage Diving). I’m looking forward to my next vacation down there.